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| spilamberto |
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| We were convinced that Modena was home to the invention of balsamic vinegar until the front desk clerk at our hotel in Marnello kindly pointed out that it was in fact the small town of Spilamberto that was its true birthplace and not Modena. Wanting to stay true to our gastronomic pilgrimage, we decided to skip Modena and head straight for Spilamberto. It was Sunday so we weren’t very hopeful that anything would be open, but we made the drive anyway. If anything, we could at least say that we had been there. We spent most of the drive joking about what we would find in Spilamberto—a balsamic vinegar museum, vinegar tastings, libraries full of books on vinegar, etc. We couldn’t stop laughing until we finally pulled into the tiny city and found that the only two places open were indeed a museum on balsamic vinegar and a store directly opposite that in fact had vinegar tastings. |
| 2002-2003 |
| > a gastronomic tour > cinque terre > via dell'amore > marnello > bologna > lasagna in florence > montalcino > siena > san gimignano |
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| > italy |
| > home |
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| The unassuming museum was actually laid out better than some of Italy’s more famous museums. From grape selection to cooking the fermented liquid down and transferring it from barrel to barrel each year, neat descriptions taught us the complete process of how to make balsamic vinegar. Barrels with aging vinegar are on display, life-like exhibits seemed as real as the vinegar in the barrels and the entire museum is filled with the vinegar’s deliciously sweet smell. Surprisingly, our joking in the car backfired on us. We didn’t mind one bit. |
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| We barely made it in to the balsamic vinegar store across the street (that darn siesta), but the owner kindly unlocked the door and flipped on the lights when she saw our pleading faces at the window. She then treated us to a tasting of vinegars (gratis) and allowed our tongues to discover the differences between 10 year and 25 year old vinegar. Both were so good you could have drunk them straight, no food needed. |
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| On our walk back to the car we had a chance to take-in all three streets of Spilamberto. A country town with medieval churches and squares, a quaint park and hometown restaurants, it is probably one of Italy’s best kept secrets (or was until now). |